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Global Foodservice Zur Alten Mühle hotel and restaurant serves fish from its onsite trout farm. has since been restored to its former glory. Wood, the most important resource of the Black Forest, brought indus- tries such as cardboard, tim- ber and paper to the region in the 19th century, but fortunes began to decline after World War II. Te conversion of the old factory illustrates the re- vival of the region as a tourist and gourmet destination. Te restaurant is decorated Fresh is best Germany's Black Forest restaurant relies on trout farms BY ANTHONY FLETCHER T he beautiful Black Forest region of southwest Ger- many is a paradise for lovers of the great outdoors. Tis heav- ily wooded mountain range close to the French border is laced with fast-flowing riv- ers and dotted with picture- postcard villages that could be straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. Te region is also known for its cuisine. Black Forest ham and Black Forest gateau have achieved international recognition, and there are 17 Michelin-starred restaurants located throughout the region. Less well known, perhaps, is the Black Forest's abundance of freshwater fish, which pro- vides an interesting twist to the traditional impression of southern German cuisine as being solely about meat. Te family-run, four-star Zur Alten Mühle hotel and restaurant in Neuenbürg, for example, is all about fresh- water fish, sourced from the Zordel family's fish farm. Te gourmet middle-end res- taurant, located deep in the heart of the region, also uses fresh, local ingredients when possible to give customers an authentic Black Forest flavor. Te story of Zur Alten Mühle began in 1964, when the Zordel family started a small fish farm on the Ey- achtal river in Neuenbürg. "It was only a hobby at first, but we now have seven trout farms across Germany," says manager Daniela Zordel, daughter of founder Hans Zordel. "Te fish farm here in the Black Forest is the biggest trout farm in Germany. And of course we also now have a very nice restaurant!" Indeed, the climate and water quality in southern Germany are ideal for farm- ing freshwater fish, especially 40 SeaFood Business September 2012 trout, which is why more than half of the 483 registered fish farms are located in the states of Bavaria and Baden-Wurt- temberg (home to the Black Forest). Rainbow trout is the most important fish species in German coldwater aqua- culture, representing 95 per- cent of all farmed table fish. In fact, trout production has risen by just under 30 percent in the past 10 years; in 2010, Germany produced 28,200 tons of trout. Te industry is still dominated by small- and medium-sized businesses like the Zordel family's. "It is still very much a fam- ily affair," adds Zordel, who has been keen to keep the family tradition alive. "Father and son look after the trout farm, while I run the hotel with my daughter." Te restaurant, a former cardboard factory built in 1874, was in a dilapidated state when it was purchased by Zordel's parents in 1978, but in the traditional Black Forest style, with painted window shutters, flower boxes and wood carvings, and serves a variety of regional dishes. Its main focus however is freshly sourced fish. Te family's aim, says Zordel, is to achieve a convivial atmosphere both in- side and out. Te fish menu is extensive, but as in many mid- dle- to high-end restaurants in Germany, it offers surprisingly good value. Entrées include blue trout cooked in Riesling wine with potatoes, melted but- ter and leaf salad for €14.00 ($17.25), fried trout in beer batter for €13.90 ($17.12) and trout fillet fried in but- ter with spinach sauce for €15.40 ($18.97). Over the past few years, the restaurant has built an impressive reputation for itself within the region. While customers can dine in the restaurant, they can also purchase fresh fish di- rectly from the farm. By selling directly to end customers, fish farmers are of- ten able to get prices between €5.50 and €9 per kilogram for fresh trout, while custom- ers are guaranteed fresh, local produce. In other words, a fresh taste of the Black Forest you can take home with you. Contributing Editor Fletcher lives in Brussels Visit us online at www.seafoodbusiness.com Anthony Photo courtesy of Zur Alten Mühle