SeaFood Business

MAR 2013

SeaFood Business is the global trusted authority for seafood buyers and sellers. We are the seafood industry's leading trade magazine with more than 30 years of experience. Our coverage is based on the "business" of buying and selling seafood.

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Global Foodservice Photo courtesy of Tabb���s There is an impressive number of quality seafood restaurants in Cornwall. The Cornish revolution England���s Celtic corner offers seafood restaurants that are slowly becoming famous BY ANTHONY FLETCHER T he county of Cornwall, situated on the tip of England���s southwest peninsula, is a beautiful rugged stretch of land that retains a distinctive Celtic identity. In recent years, there has been a concerted attempt to revive the Cornish language, which is closely related to Welsh. Tis sense of di���erence is heightened by the region���s relative isolation from the United Kingdom���s main centers of population. Spectacular scenery, miles of empty coastline and an interesting culture have been drawing tourists to 44 SeaFood Business March 2013 Cornwall for years. More recently, the county has developed a deserved reputation of culinary excellence, a laid-back foodie destination where fantastic dishes can be enjoyed in an unpretentious and friendly setting. ���Cornwall is a great place to live and work if you are a chef,��� says Nigel Tabb, chef patron of Tabb���s in the Cornish town of Truro. ���Tere is now a real chef community here. Tere is no animosity or anything like that; it���s the sort of place where the Michelin-star guys rub shoulders with chefs at the waterside caf��s. We have a laugh, we organize food festivals ��� ultimately, we all want people to enjoy themselves.��� Tere is an impressive number of quality seafood restaurants in the region, some of which have been awarded Michelin stars, such as Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in the town of Rock and Driftwood. Chef Rick Stein, who has appeared on numerous British food programs, has opened four seafood restaurants in the region, and has done as much as anyone to raise the pro���le of Cornish cuisine. Te county���s burgeoning restaurant scene has created a mini industry of foodie tours, organized trips that com- region where tourism represents about a quarter of the local economy ��� Cornwall is one of the U.K.���s poorest regions ��� the culinary revolution has been most welcome. ���Cornwall has changed hugely,��� agrees Tabb. ���It is now a recognized food destination. After college I went to London, where it was all happening then, but now you have world-class chefs here.��� Tabb is Cornish born and bred, and was delighted to have been able to return to his roots. After working in a number of hotels and restaurants, he took the plunge, resigned from his job and set up his own restaurant in the ���shing village of Portreath at the age of 26. ���Tis is all I ever wanted to do,��� he says. ���My parents bought a pub and restaurant when I was 6 months old, so it���s all I���ve ever known.��� After 14 years in Portreath, Tabb moved to Truro, the only city in Cornwall (population 20,000). His attitude to cooking is simple: If he likes something, he���ll cook it, and if he doesn���t, he won���t. Te ���sh he sources are from the waters around Cornwall, and in keeping with the county���s laid-back attitude, his emphasis is on letting customers ���Cornwall is a great place to live and work if you are a chef. There is now a real chef community here. There is no animosity or anything like that; it���s the sort of place where the Michelin-star guys rub shoulders with chefs at the waterside caf��s��� �� Nigel Tabb, chef, Tabb��s bine coastal walking or cycling with high-end dining. Many of these tours trace the South West Coast Path National Trail, which o���ers 630 miles of idyllic coastline. In a have fun. ���It���s not a temple,��� he says. ���People are coming for a good time. So I���ll play a little blues music, keep things simple.��� Continued on page 84 Visit us online at www.seafoodbusiness.com

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